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C + 12 : When Emperors Have to Hide

Updated: May 10, 2021

Another day, another excursion! We visited Stari Grad this morning to buy fresh fruits and croissants. We had the town almost for ourselves when we arrived at 8.30 am. The tourists still hug the pillows - a few locals were up however for their bread run and first coffees.

The lovely, small town of Stari Grad - the biggest town on Hvar Island though. It was founded by Greek colonists 2’400 years ago


On the way to Trogir - for the first time we were able to switch off the engine and sail with sails only. It got suddenly so quiet. We made only 6.3 kn an hour but everybody cheered and took pictures as we glided effortlessly over the sea. A bit after midday we reached Trogir, a Venetian town for 800 years. Its claim to fame was its repulse of Batu Khan and his Mongolian Army in 1241/42. The fact that the Mongolian horses did not have enough food in Dalmatia, that the local mountain scrubs could not be used to build siege engines & that the wet marshes around Trogir made any cavalry attack difficult may have helped but it was definitely the bravery of CROATS that stoped the Mongols!


Entrance to Trogir with the citadel


Trogir seafront for Venetian Galleys - the Campanile copy makes you already feel at home


Climbing Trogir’s bell tower not recommended for the faint-hearted - shakiest stairs ever


... but definitely worth it! The view over the roof tops is stunning


We continued sailing with Split in our mind


Sea side front of Diocletian’s Imperial Palace in Split - it is remarkably well preserved


The lower grounds are very solid and still support the old town's buildings - they also tell us how the upper levels were used. Our guide Maya gave us the most interesting tour blending history, architecture & Roman engineering.


Diocletian’s Mausoleum did not serve his purpose for a long time. Diocletian’s body was unceremoniously dispatched by the Christians whom he had so relentlessly prosecuted. His tomb converted into a cathedral. Don’t do evil! Otherwise ...


The cathedral’s beautiful altar


Diocletian’s peristyle where he received visitors who were allowed the privilege to prostrate on the floor to say hello and swear their eternal alliance to him... ! His people were so loyal that he had to live permanently in a fortress guard by his Pretorian Guard (read C - 16)

Maya’s tour was truly interesting. We completely ate up our budgeted time for shopping. We returned with no bags to the Dragonfly but very happy. Now it is seabass for dinner.

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