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D + 19: The Unexpected Mini-Venice

Updated: Mar 26, 2021


Approaching Portoscuso (Hidden Harbor) this morning - the mini-arsenal is in the middle


One of the nice things about sailing is that every day is full of surprises. Sometimes big, sometimes small. To a certain extend the unexpected rules. We had to bring one of our sailors to Portoscuso this morning. Teaching duties called him back to London. Portoscuso is a fairly non-descript town with a large power station several times the size of the town.

The assembly place with three wooden boats still inside - albeit all in a terrible shape

The giant storage facility now stocks beers and soft drinks for the bar next door

Storage facilities and open space to the left of the Assembly Halls

The type of fishing boat the shipyard may have produced

As we approached the port, we saw something that looked like a mini Arsenal of Venice – and indeed it was. We found an old shipyard for commercial and fishing vessels that has fallen in disuse. We first thought it was related to Spanish times but then found a plaque dating it to 1870. But everything we had seen in Venice last year was there. The beautifully but now roofless area where the ships were once assembled, the large, white open space for making ropes and sails and the brick-vaulted storage facility for planks, masts, nails, flax and anything else that was needed. We tried to get inside but the place was looked. We thus decided to look at it from the seaside. Approaching it carefully through the shallow waters, our tender got pretty close and we had a good look. This would be an ideal place for an outdoor club or restaurant with the ugly power plant overshadowing the port, it will not happen.

Another old Spanish Gun Tower - built in 1594 - protecting Portoscuso

A mighty lava layer on top of limestone reminds us of the violent tectonic history of Sardinia just next to Portoscuso's little town beach

After our surprise discovery, we set sail to round the most southern tip of Sardinia. Winds freshened up – actually quite a bit. Waves topped with white crowns sent fine spray flying over our deck. All sails were up and optimally trimmed. The AFAET ploughed majestically through the waters It was fun to be on such a good sailboat. On the coast, Saracen towers accompanied us the entire afternoon, the sky was spotless and the sea in its most royal blue. What a relaxing afternoon. The only thing that did not go according to plan was the orange cake which landed on the floor. One of these surprises! We will bake another one.

Our tender bouncing in the waves

Sailing with 9 knots was fun!

Our skipper Nikos had a good day at the wheel and loved the speed

The coast was hilly but some hills sheered vertically off into the sea

We arrived at Tuerredda - as always protected by several Saracen Towers - after 4 hours of sailing

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