J + 18 : Cumae, Castello di Baia, Procida

Procida's beautiful Port viewed from Terra Murata, its fortified Upper Town

If you want to understand a place, you must visit. Nothing beats the experience of walking around the site you want to understand. The thought went through my mind this morning when standing on Cumae's Acropolis, Italy's oldest Greek colony. The Greek who came to this part of the world for several centuries before settling, recognised its ideal location. A steep cliff overlooking an inlet could serve as fortress and upper town. The surrounding hills with their volcanic soil feed the town. The inlet below the cliffs was sufficiently deep to serve as port for their 20 - 30 meters long ships.

Location of Cumae's now silted Port - to the right is Cumae's Acropolis - at the back Ischia

Once you stand on the remains of the Temple of Zeus and Temple of Apollo, you instantly understand the Genius Loci, the uniqueness of the place. Cumae did not only appeal to the Greek. Several centuries later, the Romans were captured by its spirit as well. They built their villas here, extended the Agora into a larger Forum, repaired the temples, added bathes and other facilities. In short, Rome made it a city where Greek and Roman culture merged. The town which gave the Etrusans the Euboean version of the Greek alphabet (which then became the Latin alphabet), now allowed the Romans to immerse themselves in Greek philosophy and culture.

Cumae's Temple of Zeus was expanded by the Romans using

the Greek Foundation Stones

After touring Cumae, a young taxidriver who spoke a beautiful Italian, picked us up and brought us to the Castello Aragonese di Baia. On the way, we learned everything about the viniculture of the Campi Flegrei and were encouraged to buy the local white Falanghina. We duly did. It is lighter than the Grecos we had over the last two weeks. More mineralic. But fresh, fruity. Indeed a very pleasant wine grown on the volcanic soil of the area.

We found four Bottles of Falanghina in an Enoteco on Procida

The Castello is an impressive monster fortezza. Possibly built on the site where Julius Caesar's country villa once overlooked Baia, it is more than 2'000 years younger than Cumae. The Aragon King Alfonso II built it from 1490 - 1493 to defend the Bay against a possible French invasion. It was constructed in Sienese style with high, thick, vertical walls. Impressive but definitely vulnerable against the Turkish artillery used to break the even more impressive walls of Constantinople in 1453.

Castello di Baia - to the Right the Medieval Part - to the Left the Renaissance Addition

Digesting the lessens from the Siege of Rhodes in 1522 which forced the Knights of Saint John (later the Maltese Knights) to give up their home, Pedro Alvarez de Toledo, Sicily's Vice King and omnipotent Spanish Governor, decided to give it a refit. From 1538 to 1550 star-shaped bastions, trenches and a deep defensive structure on the Castello's land-side were added. Now the Castello could withstand a prolonged siege and protect the population of the Miseno peninsula. The Castello was so impressive, the Turks never tried to attack it. The fort fullfilled its purpose. "Si vis pacem, para bellum" If you want peace, prepare for war, as the Romans famously said. The Castello is a fascinating combination of medieval and renaissance military architecture. The medieval part watches the harbour, the renaissance part keeps the fort save from the land-side.

Approaching the Island of Procida from Miseno - Terra Murata

is clearly visible behind the Port

After the visit it was time to move to Procida. We wanted to visit the island where "Il Postino" was filmed, the poetic movie from 1994. Now that the summer holidays are over and students are back to school, we had Procida to ourselves. The island is as pictoresque as we know it from photos and the movie. Procida's inhabitants were wise when they realized that the Corsair raids in the early 16th century would be a permanent feature.

At the Town Entrance at the Port, a Poster reminds of the Movie "Il Postino" filmed here

They heavily fortified the island's upper town, the Terra Murata. Just in case. As the Turkish pirates attacked the surrounding islands, including Ischia, they were save. The Ottoman ships sailed by, deciding that there were easier targets to pick and left the islanders alone. Again "si vis pacem, para bellum".

Another View on Procida's Fisher Harbour from the Terra Murata

We ended the day by sailing back to Ischia - the water quality here is best - and found a quiet bay next to one of the old Saracen Watch Towers which is now a luxury hotel with a thermal SpA. Perfect for dinner and a Buona Notte.

The Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo is a beautiful, richly

decorated Church in Terra Murata and this year 1'000 years old