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J - 177 : Villa Jovis - Imperial Fortress in the Sky
Villa Jovis behind Capri as seen from Monte Solaro, the Island's highest Elevation High above the Tyrrhenian Sea, on the island of Capri, stand the ruins of the Imperial Villa Jovis. For ten years (27 – 37 AD), the second Roman Emperor lived and ruled from here. Tiberius’ old palace towers 334 m or 1066 feet above sea level. It was placed on Capri’s second highest mountain. To our ears, Villa Jovis does not sound like anything special – just "Jupiter House". For the Romans th
hbanziger
2 days ago5 min read


J - 179 : Calm Waters - Troubling Sea Floors
The Isola Ferdinandea appeared in 1831 a few Miles northwest of Pantelleria Growing up in the Swiss mountains, my understanding of the sea was limited. For the longest time I believed tsunamis – as depicted in Japanese paintings – were a myth, or an exaggeration at best. It took the tsunami in the Indian Ocean in July 2006 killing thousands in Sri Lanka, Java and Thailand to make me understand that such rare events were real. Geology of the Marsili Sea Mount and the Aeolian I
hbanziger
4 days ago4 min read


J - 182 : How Amber - the "Gold of the North" conquered the Mediterranean World
There is no polished Amber on the Baltic Shores - it is a Fake Photo - but I still like it At times, I come across topics I have not heard about for decades. Happened to me a week ago when talking about the Etruscan trade with Northern Europe. The Etruscans exported high quality iron weapons and brought back amber from the Baltics. Not being entirely sure what amber was I looked it up on Google. Bernstein of course! German for amber. And back came the images of my geography c
hbanziger
Feb 284 min read


J - 183 : What did the Etruscans Eat?
The contemporary Umbrian Cuisine is more diversified than Etruscan Food who consisted mainly of Stews, Pot au Feu, Soups and all types of Porridges Putting menu plans and wine lists together for our summer sailing is one of my preferred activities. Fabulous Italian dishes come to my mind like Spaghetti Vongole, Parmigiano Melanzzane, Safran Risotto, Tomato Salade with Basil, Verdure Grigliate, Bruschetta, all sorts of sea food and delicious cold cuts. Italy’s mediterranean cu
hbanziger
Feb 273 min read


J - 188 : Did Volcanos inspire the Idea of Purgatory?
Etna Eruption at Night - Catania in the Foreground During the Holy Year in 2025, I had the chance to walk through all four Holy Doors in Rome. Was also invited to a private visit of the Sistine Chapel. For 20 minutes, we silently admired Michelangelo’s frescos where cardinals appoint their Popes. Having seen the ceiling during previous visits - sandwiched between dozens of other visitors - I focused on the artist’s “Last Judgement”. At the bottom, there are demons and devil
hbanziger
Feb 234 min read


J - 190 : Fufluna - Ancient Etruscan Port
The Castle of Populonia stands on the Acropolis of Fufluna, the ancient Etruscan Port During years of sailing along ancient trade routes, we dropped anchor in many old Greek ports. There was usually a port basin for the ships, a rocky outcrop with an acropolis, somewhere temples for major deities and dual use buildings which lined the quays. Marseille, Knidos, Miletus and Rhodes are good examples. The Etruscan Federation at its Peak in the 7th Century When Greek explorers
hbanziger
Feb 204 min read


J - 195 : How Obsidian Glass Stratified Society
Outcrop of Obsidian Glass on the Eastern Tip of Lipari, the largest Aeolian Island Over the last few years, obsidian made an interesting come-back. Once material for cutting edge tools for our neolithic ancestors, it now adorns the necks and ears of modern women. Obsidian, a volcanic glass, acts like a mirror when carefully polished. Look at an “Alhambra” ear ring and you look at yourself. An Obsidian Pendant from the Alhambra Collection (Van Cleef & Arpel
hbanziger
Feb 154 min read


J - 200: Pointed Arches from the Middle East
Pointed Arches in the Duomo di Sant Andrea, Amalfi We will visit Amalfi and its Duomo in Week 3 this summer A good year ago, Notre Dame in Paris opened its doors again. It was closed for five years for refurbishment after it burnt down in spring 2019. I vividly remember the TV pictures of the flames licking up the roof and how the spire collapsed. Next to the Duomo of Milan, Notre Dame is the world's most famous Gothic church. My favorite though is the smaller Cathedral o
hbanziger
Feb 104 min read


J - 206 : Etruscan Mariners in the Tyrrhenian
Etruscan Buccheri (simple pottery) exported to Sardinia, now in the National Archeology Museum in Calgari At times, I stumble on fascinating facts which stare into my face for years without me noticing. Happened again last week when I wrote about Campi Flegrei , the large cauldron west of Naples. As I was searching for craters, I came across the Greek colony of Cumae, a settlement with acropolis, port and long town walls. In 474 BC, 6 years after the Athenians destroyed the P
hbanziger
Feb 45 min read


J - 209 : Campi Flegrei - Ticking Time Bomb?
View over the "Phlegarean Fields" east of Pozzuoli towards Sorrento (l.) and Capri (r.) The “Phlegarean Fields” or Campi Flegrei were in the news last week. During one single night, local Emergency Services received more than 800 reports of new gas vents opening up in the middle of villages, streets, parks and open fields. The “Campi Flegrei”, the often overlooked twin to the Vesuvius volcano, seem to be wakening up. Under upward pressure and volcanic steam one road i
hbanziger
Feb 14 min read


J - 214 : How "Paradise Lost" and "Noah's Arch" became part of our Collective Memory
Perception of the Garden of Eden by an unknown Artist in the 18th Century We do not know whether Apostle Paul had any luggage for his journey as prisoner to Rome. Possibly he carried the Septuagint, the Greek translation of the Jewish Thora in his bag. In his teaching, he often referred to it. This way the Book of Genesis, the biblical story of the beginning of the world, reached Rome. Alternatively, wealthy Jewish merchants who already lived for decades in the capital obtain
hbanziger
Jan 276 min read


J - 220 : The "Steely" Roman Empire
Segmented Plate Armor (Lorica Segmentata) weighted about 15 kilograms per Legionnaire Global trade is made possible by maritime transport. These days, there are a good 107’000 merchant ships plowing the waves. Oil tankers account for about 12’000 ships, bulk carriers (ore, coal, grain) make up 13’000. There are 21’000 large cargo and 6’000 container vessels. The other 50% are smaller, primarily coastal merchant ships. A Roman Grain Freighter leaving a Port - possibly Leptis M
hbanziger
Jan 215 min read


J - 222 : Plate Tectonics Make Mediterranean Burgundy
Mount Etna in the Evening seen from the North - His standard Plume stronger than normal When Apostle Paul sailed along Sicily’s east coast on his way to Rome in 60 AD, he must have noticed Mount Etna and possibly the many vineyards on the slopes. The mountain is huffing and puffing since people remember. Wine was planted on its slopes after Greek settlers arrived in the 8 th century BC. The colonist cleared slopes, built terraces and introduced irrigation. For them, wine was
hbanziger
Jan 193 min read


J - 226 : Roman Ports - Vital Nods in Roman Economy
The Roman Naval Base of Misenum 200 AD - the Italian Port of Miseno in 2022 AD Over the last ten years, we visited many ancient ports. Some were silted like Miletus , Kaunos , Andriake or Patara . Others lost their purpose and were abandoned - Knidos , Fréjus , Kelenderis or Caesarea come to my mind. A few are still in use – such as Piraeus, Messina, Pozzuoli and Miseno. All these ports were part of Rome’s far-flung network that comprised 200 major and 3’000 minor
hbanziger
Jan 154 min read


J - 231 : Last Leg of Apostle Paul's Voyage to Rome (Part III)
Love the quiet festive season with its family dinners, long out-door walks and the occasional fresh snow. Time to restart my blog and finish the travel planning for this summer. This year we pushed sailing to September. The last three years we sailed during peak season when all major ports and towns were busy. Let's see how we do when most of the holiday goers have returned. We are on the 3rd and final leg of our project to follow the route of Apostle Paul who was brought as
hbanziger
Jan 102 min read


I + 21 : Epilogue - How the Minoans, Phoenicians and Dorians dominated Trade
Am often asked “what was the highlight" of the 2025 trip? Most people expect an answer like the "Turquoise Beach of Kasos", or the...
hbanziger
Aug 10, 20255 min read


I + 20 : Messene - Reminder of Transience
Our Boat, the MYRA, this morning at Sunrise at 06.59 am (in Rhodes it was 06.25 am) This morning, after breakfast, it was time to say...
hbanziger
Aug 10, 20253 min read


I + 19 : A Castle for Franks, Venetians, Genovese, Ottomans, Egyptians and Rebels
Staying in the Bay of Navarino last night was a good choice. The sea was calm. We were well protected from the westerlies. This morning,...
hbanziger
Aug 8, 20253 min read


I + 18 : Navarino Bay - Where Greece became Independent
Sunrise over the location of the Navarino Battle today What a rocky start this morning. Swell from the west hit us hard after leaving...
hbanziger
Aug 7, 20253 min read


I + 17 : Was Miguel de Cervantes in Methoni?
Methoni at Quarter to Eight - the Town's 17th Century Bastions in the Middle of the Photo The South of the Peloponnese is a fabulous...
hbanziger
Aug 6, 20253 min read
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