J - 32 : Saint - Honorat, Europe's oldest Abbey

The Abbey de Saint - Honorat was established in 406 AD at the End of the Roman Empire

Three years ago, almost to the day, we planned to visit Europe's oldest Abbey on the island of Saint-Honorat. The island is an oasis of peace. Difficult to imagine for a place only 15 min by shuttle boat from busy Cannes, Few holiday makers make it to the island though. There were only a dozen people on the first ferry - surgery enhanced Cannes visitors have different priorities. At least their spending increases France's tax revenues which directly benefit the monastery. Its recent restoration cost the State millions of Euros.

The Mistral on 27th of July 2023 was blowing at over 30 kn/h (screenshot from Windy)

Three years earlier, in July 2023, during the second week of sailing along Spain's old silver route from Seville to Genoa, we were caught by a violent Mistral. The evening we arrived from Villefranche before Cannes, the Meteo warned of an imminent two day storm. As eveybody else, we were looking for a harbor to shelter. "Desolé, nous somme pleins" was the standard reply. The closest harbour we could find was in Porquerolles near Hyères, a good 70 nautical miles to the west. We had to sacrifice the visits to Saint - Honorate, Fréjus, the old Roman port, and Château Léoub, producer of fine whites and rosés. After a whole day on the sea, we reached Porquerolles in the evening. We made it just before the Mistral set in. The violent clanking of the riggings woke us up at midnight as the wind reached full speed - over 30 knots. For the next two days we were "stuck" on the island - not a fate to complain about given that we had Porquerolles all to ourselves. The ferries for day time visitors from Hyères and Le Lavandou had been suspended.

Photo from the South-Western Corner of Porquerolles - the Waves were 1 1/2 m high

3 years later, on our way to Castellina in Chianti, we decided to stop for two days in Cannes to break the 9 hours drive on the highway. We finally had the chance to visit Saint - Honorat. The abbey was founded by Honoratus, who intended to visit with his brother the hermits in Syria and Egypt. Sadly, his brother fell ill in Greece and passed away. Honoratus decided to return and set up on the barren island that carries his name today. According to legends, he swept the rocky island with a palm branch to clear it from poisonous snakes and scorpions. This is how the palm leave made it into Cannes' coat of arms and why the winner of Cannes' annual film festival takes a Palme d'Or home.

The Cliffs of Saint - Honorat give you a good idea how

Island looked like before the Monks started cultivation

For 1'620 years, Saint - Honorat served as a monastery - with only two interruptions. In the 9th centuries, Saracen pirates from Tunisia sacked the island, killed all the monks and carried away all the valuable goods. During the French Revolution the same happened again. This time, the culprits were radical French Jacobins. Whilst buildings have been restored since, the damage is still visible. There are no more valuable paintings or objects decorating the House of God. It looks almost like a protestant church - dignified but empty.

The Interior of the Abbey's Church looks empty but dignified

After the monks had built their fortified tower where they could retreat during the many Saracen attacks, they were safe for centuries. Sadly, during the 30-Years war (1618 - 1648), the Spain discovered the strategic value of these islands. They were perfect for a naval blockade of Cannes. The two Lerin islands were occipied. The monks had to share the abbey with a garrison of Spanish soldiers for full two years. Then, French troops under King Louis XIII evicted them and returned the island to its rightful owners.

The Fortress of Saint - Honorat was built between the late 11th and 14th Century

Saint - Honorat Abbey's most life threatening time was during the French Revolution in 1789. Jacobine radicals seized the island, stripped it of anything valuable, evicted the four remaining monks and declared it a state property. But even revolutionaries need money. The government sold the estate soon to Mademoiselle Sainval, an actress of the Comédie Française, who lived there for a good 20 years. In 1859 though, the Bishop of Fréjus was able to purchase the island back and in 1869, the Cistercian monks established a religious community again. They run the monastery now for 167 years. As of today, there are 22 monks . You will meet them when walking on the island.

One of the Monks working the Vineyards of the Abbey

The island is easy to visit by shuttle from Cannes harbor. Church, monastry and fort open at 10 am. There are no entry fees. It is an ideal destination for a day trip away from crowded and noisy Cannes. Many bring their swimwear and come for a full day. Others spend it in solitude in the large forest which covers half the island. There is also a small restaurant, La Tonnelle. You need to make reservations though. It gets quickly booked. The Abbey runs a small guest house for people who come for a silent, spiritual retreat. Ordinary tourists need not to apply.

Am glad we returned this summer and finally closed the gap that the Mistral opened in our itinerary in 2023. Fréjus is still to be visited. Maybe we find time after tomorrow.

The Shuttle to Saint Honorat in the Harbor of Cannes with the Old Town at the Back