I + 11 : The Beauty of Having Been Irrelevant

Rethymnon in the Morning Light at 7 am - the Venetian Port is behind the Light Tower

Rather heavy sailing today from Heraklion to Rethymnon. We opted for an early start and left the old marina at 5 am. Whilst we were right with the wind, we did not anticipate the strong swell we encountered. At one point waves reached two meters. The MYRA rocked hard. Instead of the planned four hours, it took six to reach our destination. Three of our team got a little sea sick but recovered quickly once arrived.

Sunrise at 06.25 h - the Island of Dia to the right

Approaching Rethymnon from the sea side is like arriving 500 years ago. The Venetian fortress becomes visible first, then comes the light house, finally the sea front of the old town. Little has changed since Venetian time. When the Ottoman conquered the town in 1646, they added a few mosques and minarets and dismantled the town walls to build their own houses. For the Turks, the town had no strategic value. Their vessels did not anchor here. Since the wealthy Venetian merchants stopped coming, the town fell into a doll drum. Until tourism discovered the sleeping beauty in the 1970s.

Ascent to the Venetian Fortress built in 1573

Rethymnon is not alone. In Switzerland there are Romont and Gruyere, two little towns in the Canton de Fribourg which once were important regional centers. But the industrial development of the 19th and 20th century passed them by. They did not expand beyond their town walls and are now the best preserved medieval towns in my home country. The latter became famous worldwide for its chese and today attracts visitors from all over the world. Chinese and Americans mingle happily in the narrow streets of Gruyere.

Gruyere, home town of my favorite Swiss Cheese

Anther example is Vezelay in Burgundy in France from where the French Knights set out for the second crusade to the Holy Land in 1146. They followed a dream which initiated 200 years of violence in the Middle East. The consequences still reverberate today.

Postcard View of Vezelay from the Interwar Period

Last but not least there is Brugge, the medieval trading center in Flanders whose harbor silted and whose business moved to Antwerp. Cut off from the world, it preserved its medieval structure and is a most wonderful place to visit.

Brugge is today one of Belgium's most visited Towns

After the hectic two days in Heraklion where we saw dozens of planes and ferries arriving and departing every day, we appreciated peaceful Rethymnon. Tourists sit in the street cafes which line the old Venetian harbor. Souvenir shops offer cheap memorabilia to visitors. The occasional motorbike in the street reminds you of how quiet the place is.

The Town Streets kept their Renaissance Character

Rethymnon owes its existence to the Minoans who had a keen eye for safe harbors. Half way from Heraklion to Chania, it was at an ideal distance to take shelter from unexpected winds or swells - the same we experience this summer. There is no Minoan Palace near-by. The harbor has purely shelter functions. Another proof of Minoan maritime prowess.

View from the Fortezza - MYRA to the right of Seajets

The Venetians appreciated Rethymnon for the very same reason. They built a giant fortress on top of the rocky hill to protect the port. If properly staffed, it was difficult to take. The Venetians though could not afford to garrisons all their Cretan fortresses: Gramvousa, Chania, Suda, Rethymnon, Candia and Spinalonga - all of them needed at least 600 soldiers with a minimum of 30 guns each, ample provisions, gun powder, food and water.

Unused Venetian Canon Balls are neatly pilled up in the Fortezza

Venice run out of money though. When the Turks invaded in 1646, there were too few defenders. Not surprisingly, the fortezza fell within 40 days. Due to the quick surrender, town and fort remained intact. The Ottomans moved in - and changed little.

Force Concentration during the German Airborne Invasion of Crete in 20 May 1941

Rethymnon was lucky again during the German invasion on 20th of May 1941. Their target was the town's airfield 8 miles to the east. Defended by a mixted Greek-Australian Brigade of about 5'000 men, the airfield fell quickly to the attacking German paratroupers. The British force was short of ammunition - some soldiers had only three rounds for their rifles. The paras then moved unopposed into Rethymnon.

Rethymnon and the Venetian Harbor at Night - the only time the Town is really busy

Rethymnon is a good hour from the airports of Heraklion and Chania - an ideal place for beach holidays without noise. The hotels built in the 1970s are neatly lined up on the sandy strip east of Rethymnon and do not interfere with its medieval silhouette. Being irrelevant for centuries was tough for Rethymnon at the time but now pays off for today's generation. It is a town worth visiting.