I - 59 : Peloponnesian Wines - 91% indigenous!

hbanziger
7 hours ago
5 min read

The Wine Region of Patras overlooks the Gulf of Corinth

My recent piece about Cretan wines made me discover that there are lots of indigenous grapes in Greece. Of all the wines, 90% are local. Not surprising considering that Greeks colonised the Mediterranean. European grapes are immigrants from Greece who’s people settled in Italy, Dalmatia, the South of France and Lybia. As they settled, they brought their grapes. Another axis for the spread of Greek grapes was the Danube where Greek traders sailed up to Vienna. Greek grape varieties arrived between 700 – 500 BC. Half a millenium later, Romans brought them to Northern France, Germany and England.

Map of the Peloponnese with the major Wine Denominations and their Production

Back to the Peloponnese which produces 31% of Greece’s wine. Agiorgitiko, Refosco and Mavrodaphne, all local grapes, dominate the reds (40%). But you can also find vineyards with Cabernet Sauvignon. As to the whites (60%), the local grapes Roditis, Moschofilero and Assyrtiko are dominant. Also present are Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer. Total annual production amounts to 750’000 bottles. Most of it is sold domestically but exports are increasing. You only need to look for Peloponnese wines on Vivino, my favorite wine app. The list grows year by year.

The Peloponnese's "multy-dynamic" Grape

Describing Greek varieties is a bit tricky. The Travel Guide to Peloponnese Wine summarises it best with the statement, “The versatility of Agiorgitiko is vast, from light rosé wines with spiced raspberry notes to full-bodied red wines.” Or in plain language, the grape can be used for light rosé as well as heavy reds. Quite a range! There are actually so many indigenous varieties that even local people do not know them all. Wine production during Ottoman time was severly restricted - in many places even a clandestine operation. These restrictions were harsh on people but thanks to them many varieties survived in private gardens – a grateful new generation of wine makers now uses them to revitalise their trade.

Many of the new Vineyards are located high up in the Hills to benefit from the better Climate

Another benefitting factor for Peloponnesian wine is the peninsula’s hilly topography. Many vineyards are located between 600 and 1’000 meter above sea level. On this altitude, the days are hot but the evenings cool. Dew condenses at night and gently waters the wines. The climate is not dissimilar to the one we find in France’s champagne region or the German Pfalz. The resulting whites are light, crisp and fresh.

The Wine Region of Monemvassia is the lowest in the Peloponnese and grows Assyrtiko

Over the years I tasted quite a number of Greek wines but am far from being a connoisseur! I will thus pick a few wines for this blog which I either know or definitely want to taste. On our boat, the Myra, we will have ample time to sample the goodies.

Neméa, a full-bodied Agiorgitiko

Let’s start with Agiorgitiko which means “St George’s Grape”. It is the most widely planted red in Greece. 60% of them are on the Peloponnese. Agiorgitiko is often called a “multi-dynamic” grape (never heard this expression before) due to its versatility. In the Nemea region, Agiorgitiko can only be used for reds. One of the wines I will order is Neméa Agiorgitiko, a full-bodied red from the Lantides estate, not far away from Mycenae.

The Lantides Estate is a modern Family Business in the Neméa Wine Region

It is a family business established in 1993 which focuses on high quality Greek wines. With 15 hectars, It is a large estate. It combines modern methodes with ancient traditions and exports half of its production overseas. The Neméa is described as bold, slightly tannic, dry and well balanced. It is strong on the palate but does not linger for too long in the mouth. Seems to be a wine for steaks. Probably benefits from decanting. Got a 4.0 on Vivino and is afordable. Definitely on my shopping list for this summer.

Three Types of Rosé - all from the Gaia Wine Estate in Koutsi southwest of Corinth

The next wine I want to introduce is the Rosé 4-6 from Gaia. 4-6 stands for the hours the wine must stay in touch with the red skin in order to get the pinkish color. According to the producer it blends the aroma of watermelon with fresh strawberry and a hint of grapefruit. It is fruity and a perfect summer all-rounder. It scores 3.7 on Vivino and is at EUR 12.- quite affordable. Some raters on Vivino believe this rosé is well underrated and considerably better than the average rosé from the Provence in France. The Gaia vinery is also young and dates back to 1997. With an average altitude of 550 m, it enjoys a moderate climate.

The Town of Monemvassia with the Old Fort to the Right from the Air

Now moving to the whites, I first cover the Assyrtiko from Monemvassia. We discovered this fresh white wine in 2017 when rounding the Peloponnese on our way to Bodrum. Assyrtiko Monemvasia is made in Tsimbidi, a good 15 km north-west from Monemvassia . The wine is described as white, light, crisp, refreshing – something we can confirm. On Vivino, raters use words like “dry, lemon, high minerality, high acidity, color just slightly golden, a well made Assyrtiko and give it a good 3.9 rating. At 14 Euros a bottle, this wine is a good price-value. It will definitely make it on my shopping list this summer.

Monemvasia Assyrtiko

Moschofilero is also a white we have to taste. Never had it but the description sounds intriguing. The Greek call it a charismatic grape - maybe due to the berries’ greyish – blueish colour? It is also a grape that is often used in blends giving the original an aromatic boost. The hub of Moschofilero production is Mantinia in the heart of the Pelponnese.

Tselopos Classic is No 2 in Popularity

The plateau of Mantinia is relatively high and cool. Together with the daily sun, the climate works miracles. Moschofiliero smells of citrus, litchi, green apples and rose petals. Vivino raters give it a high 3.9 rating. Don’t know what the wine did to the author of the page on “Wines of Greece” but his raving is quite extraordinary. “Those who stay forever young in knowledge and mood regardless of their biological age will find the Moschofilero the ticket to a magic journey.” Sounds like one glass too many.

Roditis will be the last wine for today. It is the most planted grape variety in Greece. Mostly used for making “modest” table whites, its berries are actually of a reddish hue. The grape produces a watery and flabby wine if not properly cared for. But if planted in higher areas, properly vinified and output constraint, the grape surprises. It is the backbone of the POD Patras. A Vivino rater describes the wine as follows:”Beautiful pale straw color. Slightly off dry with a medium body and medium (+) acidity. Aromas of pear, mandarin, orangW … and a trace of almond. On the palate are flavors of candied orange, pineapple, pear and almonds.” Some Roditis get a rating of up to 4.0; the average though is around 3.7. At EUR 10 it is probably the best price/value to be had. Definitely worth a try.