J + 19 : Pozzuoli - where once 1'000 Ships arrived every September

Pozzuoli's Amphitheatre id huge and has 2/3 the Capacity of the Roman Colliseum

After three weeks of sailing, we finally arrived in Pozzuoli, where Apostle Paul ended the sea leg of his journey. After a few days rest, he walked for three weeks on the famous Via Appia to the Roman capital where he was to be tried for his alleged crime of bringing gentiles to the Temple in Jerusalem. On the way, he was welcomed by many Christian followers. They had heard of his arrival. The emperor ignored him for several years.

A Rendering of Pozzuoli during its Heydays in the first Century AD

Saint Paul arrived in spring, rather early in the sailing season. Pozzuoli had its peak time in September, when 1'000 ships, the Classis Alexandrina, the grain ships (naves oneraria), arrived in the Gulf of Naples. They had sailed for two months along the coasts of the Levant and Anatolia, then crossed the Aegean and the Ionian before making their final leg up the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Rain Clouds gather over Mount Vesuvius - later in the Morning Naples got soaked

We originally planned to end the third week in Pozzuoli. Given weather conditions with rain forecasted for Friday and Saturday, we decided to change. We did Capri, Ischia, Miseno, Cumae and Procida first and are now taking course towards Naples and Pompei. On the way we visit Rome's largest commercial port, Pozzuoli. From the late Roman Republic at around 50 BC to the mid-second century AD, Pozzuoli was Rome's biggest harbour even though it was at a distance of 150 miles to Rome. But Ostia did not yet have the capacity to accommodate the 1'000 grain freighters from Egypt which arrived the same week. These ships were 30 to 60 meters long and carried 300 - 1'200 tons of cargo. In comparison, "My Lotty" is only 27 meters long.

Sunset over the Central Market Place in Pozzuoli

The arrival of the "Classis Alexandrina" was a big thing and threw Pozzuoli into a spinning frenzy. Announced by a few messenger ships, everybody rushed to the docks to celebrate. Religious ceremonies were held to thank the Gods, the citizens arranged parties for the mariners, barges were called to transfer the grain from the giant ships. Smaller vessels would take the cargo to Ostia and then ship it up river to Rome.

The Roman Port of Pozzuoli during the first Century AD

Grain was a huge business and had the personal attention of the emperors. The Province of Egypt was part of their personal possession. Grain from Egypt was a corner stone of imperial power. It fed Rome, the Legions and contributed big to taxes. It was so important that Emperor Claudius and Trajan massively expanded Ostia's capacity and built the hexagonal harbour which is still visible today (close to Fiumincino Airport).

The Roman Port of Ostia around 200 AD from a 16th Century Fresco in the Vatican Palace

Our morning started slowly though. Everybody had some admin to do after half a week on the boat. Combined with some swimming and kajaking, and a relavitely lavish breakfast, the morning passed quickly. On the way to Pozzuoli, we intended to stop in Procida again. The charming island had captured our hearts. We want to go there for coffee and look for the bar where the postman's love worked. It is now an upscale restaurant.

Eastern Entrance to Pozzuoli's Amphitheatre - it was sadly closed

In the afternoon we crossed over to Pozzuoli and visited the remains of the market and the amphitheatre. With a length of 149m and a width of 117m it is big. The Colisseum in Rome is 189m long and 156m wide. The amphitheatre in Pozzuoli could accommodate 50'000 spectators. The Colisseum 80'000. It was Italy's third largest amphitheatre ranking just behind Capua. Pozzuoli was big and a very important town indeed. It does not feel this way today. But everyime someone builds in Pozzuoli, they find ruins and remains from Roman time. We could see it at the old railway station where work had to stop to excavate Roman ruins under the old tracks.

Roman Ruins below the Tracks of Pozzuoli's old Railway Line

After sunset, we had dinner on the boat just outside Pozzuoli - mussels and seafood risotto. Sitting at our big table on the deck, we tried to imagine 1'000 large grain ships around us. The Gulf of Pozzuoli is now so quiet that this is rather challenging. Facing "My Lotty" was Pozzuoli's medieval town Rione Terra squeezed on a single rock. People had to huddle together to survive the persistent threats of violent raids. These two opposites, a see full of ships and a rock for less than 5'000 people reminded me how nothing is constant. Cities rise and fall. So do nations. What remains constant are human beings with their daily worries, preferences and priorities, their big hearts, their passion but also their capacity for violence and cruelty.

In the Middle Ages, Pozzuoli shrank to 5% of its Roman size on the Rock Rione Terra