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D + 17: How Silver, Lead and Zinc Made a Town
South of Basa, the mountains of Sardinia start stretching into lower, rolling hills until they form large, slightly inclined plateaus....
hbanziger
Jul 28, 20202 min read
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D + 16: What is the Catalan Word for Lobster?
The Sardinian Fisherman coming in at 9 am As we were standing on the pier in the harbour of Alghero, a fisherman arrived from his daily...
hbanziger
Jul 27, 20203 min read
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D + 15: Not Costa Smeralda but still Emerald
Sunset yesterday over Stentino After Castelsardo, we set sail for a choppy sea and headed towards the small fishing village of Stentino....
hbanziger
Jul 26, 20202 min read
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D + 14: The Power is All in the Name
Castel Doria - Castelgenovese - Castillo Aragonès – Castelsardo. The name says it all. Same place, four names, three rulers. History...
hbanziger
Jul 25, 20202 min read
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D + 13: Two Sister Islands
We changed flags today. The French was replaced by the Italian tricolour and the Corsican One Moor had to give way to Sardinia’s Four....
hbanziger
Jul 24, 20203 min read
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D + 12: Tuna Catching Anchovies
One of the more special moments on a sailboat are the early hours. The first rays of sun give everything a fresh glow, the sea is...
hbanziger
Jul 23, 20203 min read
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D + 11: A Birthplace to Forget?
After a day of leisure in and around the Bay of Gioleta, we decided to stay up after dinner and wait until the last ray of light had...
hbanziger
Jul 22, 20203 min read
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D + 10: Would Dolphins Have Welcomed the Pirate Turgut Reis?
Yesterday, we aimed for Girolata, the bay on the west coast, where in 1540 the Genovese fleet captured Turgut Reis, after he had sacked...
hbanziger
Jul 21, 20202 min read
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D + 9: Where Nelson Lost his Right Eye
Calvi in the early morning hours Every morning when we wake up and meet for coffee on the deck, it is beautifully quiet, the air is still...
hbanziger
Jul 20, 20203 min read
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D + 8: The Genovese Town of San Fiorentina
The beautiful Gulf of Saint-Florent this morning What a beautiful day to wake up to. No clouds in the sky, the sea totally flat, no wind....
hbanziger
Jul 19, 20203 min read
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D + 7: Restocking in Bastia
Our first week of sailing brought us to Bastia. We are now low on sea food, fresh vegetables, dairy products, water, fuel and white wine....
hbanziger
Jul 18, 20203 min read
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D + 6: ICI VMS CORSICA - ALLO! ALLO!
The loudspeaker was squeaking and a female voice with a Parisian accent came through: “Ici Corsica VMS, Allo! Allo! AFAET! Votre...
hbanziger
Jul 17, 20202 min read
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D + 5: Faking History in San Martino
When discussing our plans for today over dinner last night, we thought we would visit the two Spanish Fortresses, buy some white wine...
hbanziger
Jul 16, 20203 min read
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D + 4: When the Medici met the Ottomans
After a quiet night in Portoferraio which has far fewer visitors than in a normal year – maybe a third – we intend to sail to the south...
hbanziger
Jul 15, 20203 min read
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D + 3: How to Ruin a Luxury Retirement
A long sailing day today. A good hour into the journey we passed Livorno. It is a modern harbour today that handles most of Tuscany’s...
hbanziger
Jul 14, 20203 min read
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D + 2: Doria Castle and White Marbles
One of the few things I could never find out was how the Doria Castle in Porto Venere was linked to the Doria family – except for the...
hbanziger
Jul 13, 20203 min read
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D + 1: Cinque Terre
First full day of sailing. We got up at 7 am for some kayaking and left at 9 am for Porto Venere. There was a tiny bit of wind but our...
hbanziger
Jul 12, 20202 min read
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D - Day
After months of planning and much uncertainty, the big day has arrived. We met Captain Nikos and the crew of AFAET at lunchtime in Porto...
hbanziger
Jul 11, 20201 min read
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D - 3: Palazzi, Palazzi, Palazzi
Had to wait with writing this blog until I walked down the Strade Nuove yesterday. What an experience. There are so many beautiful 16th...
hbanziger
Jul 11, 20202 min read
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D - 4: Habemus Papam?
In the blog about usury, we talked about the Council of Niceae in 325 AD, which unified Christian doctrine and decided which books form...
hbanziger
Jul 10, 20204 min read
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